• Why do Indians visit Mathura as a pilgrimage? Who were its rulers? What are the important places in Mathura/Vrindavan to see? Mathura culture in the context of Sri Krishna.

Mathura is a prominent Hindu pilgrimage site, renowned as the birthplace of Lord Krishna. It is located on the banks of the river Yamuna in Uttar Pradesh. From the earliest times Mathura has been a centre of Brahmavarta, the heartland of Aryavarta; one of the Seven Cities (Sapta Puri) considered holy by Hindus. It is called Mokshyadayni Tirth, a site one must visit if one wants to go to Heaven.

The sacred city of Mathura is a living, breathing entity that embodies the essence of India’s spiritual heritage. The city boasts of a treasure trove of temples showcasing Krishna in his myriad forms and avatars. Mathura, along with its twin city Vrindavan (Krishna’s spiritual abode), forms the heart of Braj Bhoomi. This sacred region, where Lord Krishna spent his childhood, is a pilgrimage spot for devotees worldwide.

This article was first published in the Bhavan Journal.

Famous for the Krishna Janmasthan Temple, Mathura has a rich history, dating back to the Vedic period and evolving through various empires. The city finds mention in the Ramayana and other ancient texts, initially known as Madhuvan due to its dense forests.

Mathura’s influence extends beyond its physical boundaries, with many people associating the city with the teachings and stories of Lord Krishna. Learning and devotion have flourished there and the best impulses in religion, thought, literature and art have gravitated to it. What Mathura felt and sang was, within a generation, echoed by the whole country.

Mathura was also the home of the much older Vasudeva cult to which the memories of Sri Krishna’s childhood added fresh inspiration. And the cult flourished.

1 Vishram Ghat Mathura.

2. Ghats of Vrindavan. In front you see river Yamuna.

Archaeological excavations at Mathura show the gradual growth of a village into an important city during Vedic times. The earliest period belonged to the Painted Grey culture (1100–500 BCE), followed by the Northern Polished Ware culture (700–200 BCE). Mathura derived its importance as a trading centre due to its location where the northern trade route of the Indo-Gangetic Plain met with the routes to Malwa (central India) and the West coast. Archaeologists have discovered a fragment of Mathura red sandstone from Rakhigarhi—a site of Indus Valley civilisation dating to third millennium BCE which was used as a grindstone; red sandstone was also a popular material for historic period sculptures.

3 Krishna Janmabhoomi Temple.

Rulers of Mathura

Mathura finds mention in ancient scriptures like the Rigveda and the Atharvaveda. According to the Ramayana, the Ikshwaku prince Shatrughna is said to have founded the city after slaying a demon and establishing it as Madhuvan, later renamed Madhupura and finally Mathura.

In the 6th century BCE, Mathura became the capital of the Surasena Kingdom. The city was later ruled by the Mauryan Empire (4th to 2nd centuries BCE). Megasthenes, the Greek historian, mentioned Mathura as a great city in the early 3rd century BCE. Mathura may have been under the control of the Indo-Greeks between 180 BCE and 100 BCE, as evidenced by the Yavanarajya inscription found in Maghera, a town 17 kilometres from Mathura.

The opening of the 3-line text of this inscription in Brahmi script translates as: “In the 116th year of the Yavana kingdom...” or “In the 116th year of Yavana hegemony” (Yavanarajya). However, this also corresponds to the presence of the native Mitra dynasty of local rulers in Mathura, around the same time (150 BCE–50 BCE), possibly pointing to a vassalage relationship with the Indo-Greeks.

After a period of local rule, Mathura was conquered by the Indo-Scythians or Northern Satraps during the first century BCE. However, Indo-Scythian control proved to be short-lived, following the reign of the Indo Scythian Mahakshatrapa (Great Satrap) Rajuvula, 10–25 CE. The Mora Well inscription of Mahakshatrapa Rajuvula, of the early decades of the first century CE, found in a village seven miles from Mathura, stated that images pratima (h) of the blessed (bhagavatam) five Vrishni heroes, were installed in a stone shrine of a person called Tosa.

The heroes were identified from a passage in the Vayu Purana as Samkarsana, Vasudev, Pradyumna, Samba, and Aniruddha. The English translation of the inscription read: “...of the sons of Mahakshatrapa Rajuvula, swami... The images of the holy panchaviras of the Vrishnis is... the stone shrine... where the magnificent matchless stone house of Tosha was erected and maintained... five objects of adoration made of stone, radiant, as it were, with highest beauty…” 

The Kushan emperors took control of Mathura, and the city became one of their capitals.

Mathura art and culture reached its zenith during the Kushan era. Perhaps the most famous example was the artistic style known as the Mathura school. Mathura ateliers were most active during the epoch of the great Kushan emperors Kanishka, Huvishka, Vasudeva, whose reign represents the Golden Age of Mathura sculpture.

During the 3rd century CE, following the decline of the Kushan Empire, the Naga dynasty of Padmavati took control of Mathura.

In the reign of Chandragupta Vikramaditya, a magnificent temple of Vishnu was built at the site of Katra Keshavadeva. Kalidasa, the renowned poet, in the fourth to fifth century CE described the groves of Vrindavan and Govardhan hill thus: “...the king of Mathura, whose fame was acknowledged in song even by the devatas... At that moment, though still in Mathura, it appears as if Ganga has merged with Yamuna at the Sangam... 

4 Devotees offer Abhishek at temple at Govardhan hill.

10 Radha Kund is on the Govardhan Parikrama route.

11 Kusum Sarovar is on the Govardhan Parikrama route, made by Raja Bir Singh ruler of Orchha, in 1619.

In a Vrindavan garden which is superior even to Kubera’s garden, known as Chaitra-ratha... You can, as well, during rains, look at the dancing peacocks, while sitting in a pleasant cave of the Govardhan Mountain.”

Chinese Buddhist monk, Faxian, mentions the city as a centre of Buddhism about 400 CE. He found the people were very well off, there were no taxes other than for those on farmers who tilled the royal land. He found that people did not kill animals, no one consumed wine, and did not eat onion or garlic. He found that engraved title deeds were issued to land owners. Visiting priests were provided with accommodation, beds, mats, food, drink and clothes so that they could devote time to scholarship. However, Mathura’s reception of Buddha was not very hospitable; there were too many fierce dogs in Mathura, it is said, and it was very difficult for the Bhikkus to obtain alms. But it was a place where all religions met and flourished side by side and it also became a centre of Buddhism and Jainism. The one who ruled there thought himself to be the guardian of India’s culture.

The city was sacked and many of its temples destroyed by Mahmud of Ghazni in 1018 CE. The temple at Katra was razed by Mahmud Ibn Sebuktegin. The city was sacked again by Sikandar Lodi, who ruled Delhi from 1489 to 1517 CE.

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Sikandar Lodi earned the epithet of ‘Butt Shikan’, the ‘Destroyer of Idols’. Ferishta recorded that Sikandar Lodi was a staunch Muslim, with a passion for vandalising heathen temples. He forbade the barbers to shave the beards and heads of the inhabitants, in order to prevent the Hindus following their usual practices at such pilgrimages. The Portuguese Father Antonio Monserrate (1536–1600 CE), who was on a Jesuit mission at the Mughal Court during the time of Akbar, visited Mathura in 1580–82, and noted that all temples built at sites associated with the deeds of Krishna were in ruins.

5 Dwarkadish Mandir, Mathura.

13 Banke Bihari Mandir on Janmasthami.

Temples, Culture of Mathura and Vrindavan

A temple was built to replace the one at Katra in 1150 CE. The Mathura prasasti (Eulogistic Inscription) dated Samvat (V.S.) 1207 (1150 CE), said to have been found in 1889 CE at the Keshava mound by Anton Fuhrer, the German Indologist who worked with the Archaeological Survey of India, It recorded the foundation of a temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu at the Katra site. The Keshavadeva temple was rebuilt by the Bundela Rajput Raja Vir Singh Deo at a cost of thirty-three lakh rupees when gold was around Rs. 10/- per tola.

You will love the city’s old-world charm that spills from every nook and corner, as you step into Mathura. Narrow streets lined by old houses and ornately carved doorways transport you back in time. Here, amid the chants of devotees and the gentle tinkling of bells in temples across the city, you can almost feel the presence of the divine.

6 River Yamuna banks at Mathura.

The Yamuna is considered sacred and is a significant part of Mathura’s spiritual landscape. The riverbanks feature ghats, which are used for rituals and holy dips. Vishram Ghat is a prominent place where Krishna is said to have rested after defeating his uncle Kamsa. Mathura celebrates numerous festivals, particularly Janmashtami and Holi, with vibrancy and gaiety.

The Mathura culture is famous throughout India, particularly in places which consider Hinduism to be the main religion. Their rich tradition of folk songs are famous even in foreign lands. Raslila is predominant in Mathura culture.

The Bhagavad Purana says that Shri Krishna danced the Ras on the bank of the Yamuna at Vrindavan along with the gopis. Ever since, this dance is famous as Raslila. Only young Brahmin boys of 13 to 14 years of age can perform it.

7 Holi in Vrindavan.

8 Boy dressed as Sri Krishna with flute in hand.

9 Holi at Barsana, celebrated as Lathmar Holi.

15 A couple dressed up as Sri Krishna & Radha. Holi at Nandgaon.

The traditional folk dance of Braj is performed on the Dooj of Holi. A female dancer balances a row of lighted deepikas on her head while dancing. Usually, the number of lamps ranges from 51 to 108 in each performance. The Rasiya songs are the love songs of the divine couple Radha and Shri Krishna. These songs are compulsorily sung in Holi celebrations and all other festive occasions at Braj.

14 Sewa Kunj, Vrindavan. This is the sacred place of Raslila was held in earlier times.

For the city’s economic health, the Government has taken advantage of its location to house one of the biggest oil refineries namely Mathura Refinery, with an annual refining capacity of 8 million tonnes, in the city. This refinery is a technologically advanced oil refinery and provides local employment opportunities as well. Its main focus is to meet the demands from the National Capital Region. The refinery has undertaken projects to upgrade its diesel and gasoline units to bring sulphur levels down by nearly 80 percent.

Mathura’s fame as the birthplace of Lord Krishna has made it a centre of devotion and spirituality. And this is visible across the city’s ancient and new temples, vibrant festivals and even the cuisine. Everything about this place feels sacred. As time goes by and modernity creeps into every corner of life, it still remains a beacon of faith and devotion

Bhushan Lal Razdan, formerly from the Indian Revenue Service, retired as Director General of Income Tax (Investigation), Chandigarh. Postretirement, he is actively associated with medical, educational, cultural and heritage issues and has joined various societies and trusts to promote these objectives. Occasionally he contributes articles of contemporary relevance in newspapers and magazines. He is also Chairman of Vitasta Health Care Trust.

This article was first published in the Bhavan’s Journal, August 1-15, 2025 issue. This article is courtesy and copyright Bhavan’s Journal, Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan, Mumbai-400007. eSamskriti has obtained permission from Bhavan’s Journal to share. Do subscribe to the Bhavan’s Journal – it is very good.

Also see albums

1. Vrindavan on Janmasthami

2. Lathmar Holi, Barsana

3. Holi in Vrindavan