Barpeta is renowned in the historical map of Assam
and 90 kilometres northwest of Guwahati. It is also known as “The Land of the
Satra” and of great religious importance even today.
The heritage and culture of Barpeta district is predominated by the
remarkable work of the great Assamese renaissance figure, artist, painter, lyricist, social
reformer, dancer, sculptor, playwright, composer, philosopher and Sanskrit
scholar Mahapurush Shrimanta Sankardeva.
It was he who laid the foundation of Assamese culture and heritage in and
around the district. Subsequently his disciples namely Madhabdeva, Haridev,
Damodardev and their devotees built on the good work of Sankaradeva.
Therefore, it is said that Barpeta
is the hub of “Vaishnav” culture of Assam. All traditions and culture are based
on 600 years old Vaishnav philosophy and surrounded by a 550 year old Vaishnav
monastery of Barpeta called ‘Barpeta Satra’. The earlier name of the Satra
was Barpeta Than. It was the largest and powerful Satra of Assam.
What is a Satra?
Satra is a religious monastery, storehouse of
art and culture which was established by Mahapurush Srimanta Sankerdeva,
Madhavdeva, Damudordev and their disciples in Assam (1449-1568 A.D.). It is the
place where resides Guru (Sattradhikar), the chief of the Satra
(spiritual head), Dev Naam (chanting of Krishna’s name) and Bhagat (devotee).
Barpeta town is referred to as the
Dwarka and Mathura of Assam. The Satras that are seen in Barpeta district bear testimony
to the great Assamese reformer, Yogi and cultural exponent Srimanta Sankardeva
and disciple Shri Madhabdeva. Although the Satra institutions
were established for the propagation of Vaishnavite faith, with the
passage of time, these institutions gradually transformed themselves into open
universities to become all-embracing socio-cultural centers. They covered numerous
subjects including education, music, dance, sculpture, drama, fine-art, ivory-works
etc.
Barpeta Satra is one of the many satras in Barpeta
district. It is a unique place of Devotion. Different festivals are celebrated by
people of Barpeta, esp of Barpeta Satra, one of which is Doul Mohutshav. The
whole Satra wears a different colour especially during Holi. People from
different places visit Barpeta Satra to see Doul Utsava and take part in
the festivities.
Doul Festival is also called ‘Holi’ or ‘Fakuwa’. This festival occupies a special
place for the people of Barpeta. During the “Doul Utsava” the hearts of
Barpetians are overwhelmed with festivity and joy. It is a festival of colour
and happiness. Everyone sings a unique form of chorus song, called Holigeet, during the festival which
originated in Barpeta Satra and after that spread throughout the state.
During this festival the people of Barpeta forget
their sorrows to celebrate it with traditional gaiety and enthusiasm. In the
months of “Phagun” and “Chot” spring comes when the region is
filled with green leaves, flowers bloom, birds sing sweet songs and a gentle
wind blows with fragrance.
Inside Barpeta Satra
At Barpeta, it was Mathura Das Bura Ata, a follower and disciple of Mahapurush Sri Sri
Madhavdeva, who took responsibility
of Barpeta Satra as head of the organisation (Satria), and first
celebrated Doul festival in the model of Vaikuntha (Heaven) because it is said
that Doul Utsava was first celebrated in heaven. Thereafter, Doul Festival has
been celebrated with Satriya Parampara
(traditionally) till today at Barpeta Satra.
It is Barpeta Satra which is called Ditiya
Vaikuntha (Second Heaven) like Puri in Odisha.
Doul festival is celebrated for three
to five days. The three day Doul is called “Burha Doul” and four or five
day Doul is called “Deka Doul”. According to tradition the four day doul
is held in the month of “Phagun purnima” (full moon) and three day Doul
in ‘Chot Purnima’ (Full Moon).
The first day is
called ‘Gandha’ or ‘Banhunsava’. It is an important day on
which Vaishnavas bring nal, khagari and
ekara for meji. That evening Mahaprabhu Doul Govinda and Kalia
Thakur are brought out from Manikut ghar to mathar
chotal (courtyard of the
satra) with gayan bayan. Mahaprabhu is then brought near
the meji and after alighting the meji,
mahaprabhu takes seven rounds around it. It is called meji
puoa or magh puoa.
Atachbaji (fireworks) or Phanuch (flying lantern) are the main attractions of Gandha.
People of
Barpeta dance with colourful, joy and gaiety. Mahaprabhu is brought
to Jagmohan Ghar after meji puoa and in a sacred
moment at night Mahaprabhu is brought to Doul Ghar walking
around the seven steps (Sapta Thak).
Then people of Barpeta sing this Holigeet -
Phagu khele karunamay
Ananda kumara
Devara durlava keli
Phagur bihar. (Madhabdev)
Holigeets of Barpeta are remarkably popular
and enthral the heart of every Assamese. These holigeets are
exquisite compositions in praise of Lord Krishna. Doul Mohutshav was started by Mahapurush
Srimanta Sankardeva after his great work ‘Chihnajatra’. He wrote some holigeets too, one of the most ones being -
Range phagu khele chaitanya banamali
Duhate phagur gunda sichantaa murari
The second day
is called Bhar Doul. The Vaisanavas have naam-prasanga at Jagmohan
Ghar. After completing the morning song Ojapali Gayan-bayan is
held. Dhuliya nritya (dance)
is a memorable show which is held during all three days.
The last day is
called Fakuwa or suweri. In the morning Mahaprabhu is
brought out from Jagmohan Ghar and is placed inside
the Kirtan Ghar. At noon Kaliya Thakur and Mahaprabhu are
again brought to Mathar Chatal (courtyard of the satra), and the people of Barpeta
shower phakuguri (colours) with
joy. Holigeets and its echoes are spread all over Barpeta for example
-
Aji range range akakar
Aha bhai khelo sabe
mili
Prane pran aaji
Barpeta bardhame chouishe phagu ure
Abir chandan badanate
Aaji basanti kino rang dhaliche
Parane parane naba siharan jagiche
Doul Mohutshav
On this special day, Mahaprabhu Gosain and Kaliya
Thakur are seated on a beautiful Dola (palanquin).
As soon as Mahaprabhu Gosain reaches from Baradi Satra, the Vaishnavs bring
three Mahaprabhu to Kanara Satra with a view to have Heketa (a type of wild gram). In this jatra, many people assemble
and sing holigeets for example -
Aaji khele holi
Range brindabane
Gopa gopi sabe nache
Phakur anande
Mahaprabhu returns from Kanara Satra. As
Lord Krishna is not permitted to come in by Lakshmi after his return from the
house of Ghunucha (inside Kirtan Ghar), Mahaprabhu is prevented from
doing so by the Vaishnavas who make four bamboos in front of Kirtan Ghar. These four bamboos are divided among three that is Haties-Uttarhati-two
bamboos, Nahati-one bamboo and Dakhinhati-one bamboo. After
breaking these four bamboos Mahaprabhu walks
around kirtan ghar seven times.
Thus, after seven days with Ghunucha, Lord Krishna
returns to Lakshmi. According to tradition Lakshmi defeats Lord Krishna after
which he gives Rs 300 and is admitted into Kirtan Ghar. Similarly, the Bhaktas of Mahaprabhu fine
him Rs 300 and bring Kalia Thakur to Bhaj Ghar or
Manikut.
Sandhya
samayat karia anek utsava
Doular bhitar
goiya pailanta Madhava.
For centuries the people of Barpeta Satra have been
celebrating Doul Mohutshav or Holi every year. The festival showcases cultural
richness and tradition of the region. It fills the hearts of all the people of
Barpeta with fervour and colour.
And finally, in this manner, the famous Doul
Festival of Barpeta comes to an end.
Author is a Research Scholar, Centre for Studies in Philosophy, Dibrugarh University, Dibrugarh, Assam.
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Also read
1 Teachings of Sankaradeva
2 Sastras of Majuli pictures
3 Srimanta Sankaradeva Kalashetra