Visited
Mysore for Dussehra in 2017. Awesome and enriching are apt words to describe
the five day experience.
I
usually take low cost airlines. This time decided to check out the Air India
site. Ticket for Mumbai Bangalore both ways was Rs 4,600/. It was cheaper than
every private airline. The best part is when you book AI online they do not
charge convenience fee.
Reached
Bangalore about 8 am. Karnataka State Transport run a premium bus service from
the airport to Mysore. Cost some Rs 750/. Had played safe and booked tickets
online. We left at about 8.45 am to reach Mysuru by 1 ish. There is a police
approved auto stand in the bus stand. Take that or you would end paying more e.g.
bus stand to Karnataka Tourism Hotel was Rs 28/. Autos ask for Rs 50/ onwards.
Had
lunch and walked down to the famous Mysore Palace. Keep about two hours to see
it well. The Marriage and Durbar Halls are awesome. Since it was Dussehra time
the golden throne was on display.
I
wanted permission to click pictures of the palace from inside. Was at the
Deputy Directors office for nearly four hours (he was very busy with Dussehra
preparations). Whilst waiting for me clicked pictures of the fully lit palace.
By the time all permissions were in place it was 11.30 am the next morning.
Due
to Dussehra too much crowd inside palace but made the best of the permission I
got. End of article is link to Mysore Palace Inside photos.
Post
lunch took a bus to Somnathpur to see the Keshava Temple i.e. about 35 kms
away. The bus took me to a point from where take share a taxi. The temple is
worth visiting and sculptures awesome. Dedicated to Sri Krishna. It was built
(around AD 1268) under Somnatha (a general in the army of Narasimha III) of the
Hoysala dynasty. For a good guide call Ramakrishna 91 99456 45237, 87222 34980.
Returned
by 7 pm ish. Was exhausted so returned to the hotel.
Next
morning left at 6 am for Chamundi Hills. Local bus stand (i.e. for city
transport, is different from the Central bus stand for inter-town travel) was a
ten minute walk. The first bus comes at 6.30 am. Reached Chamundi Hills in
about 25 minutes. Lovely drive. Had early morning darshan. Took a Rs 100/
ticket for quick darshan. Lots of devotees due to Dussehra, somehow managed to
get in. Post darshan devotees were distributing prasad (rice and shira)
outside. Visited two temples that are close to main temple.
What I missed
seeing at Chamdundi Hills? Mysore Viewing Point, Bala Tripura Sundari Temple
and Shri Chamunderashwari Temple (large Nandi). Not sure if state transport
buses go these temples so you might need to hire a vehicle.
Took
a bus to Mysuru. Enroute got off at Sand Museum. Opens at 8.30 am. Super work.
Gauri, a sculptor, made images based on numerous themes like Ganesha, Dussehra,
Wildlife, Islam, Water life, Ancient world etc. Must see. Photo links at end of
article.
Close
to the Sand Museum is the Folk Arts Museum that I missed seeing. Got so
engrossed in Sand Museum that forgot about it. Is supposed to be very good, do
see.
Next
took a bus to the Flower Show i.e. near Mysore Palace. Very creative. Made of
flowers was a temple, Eifel Tower, Team Umashankar did a stupendous job. His
number is 91 99641 92105. Pictures part of album on sand museum.
Had
a Karnataka Tourism Hotel Mayura booking for two days only (cost Rs 975/ for a
double room). Clean and nice place. Thereafter shifted to Gayatri Hotel ie
close to the station.
Mysuru
is a very clean city. Very helpful people. Lots of places to eat, both restaurants
and street food, including chat shops. Had lovely pani puri. For North Indian
food visit Indra Cafe (Paras restaurant) i.e. 5 minutes walk from palace
entrance gate.
One
day before Dussehra the present Maharaja has a private puja in Mysore Palace,
held at about 11 am. Entry is restricted.
Post
lunch on Friday walked through the Devaraja market and visited the Jagmohan
Palace Art Gallery. It has impressive Mysore Paintings. Saw the private
residential museum. Overall could be better maintained. Missed visiting the
Railway Museum where you can see Maharaja's saloon.
On days before and after Dussehra Mysore Palace is as crowded as it can get. Tourists just stand and gaze at the magnificent structure more so when it is lit. "Throughout Dasara, the Mysore Palace is illuminated by nearly 100,000 light bulbs. Visiting hours are limited to two hours (7–9pm) for the first eight days and then for three hours (7–10pm) on the final Vijayadashami Day."
Missed
visiting city temples. You can visit Laksmimirassa temple ie dedicated to Lord
Vishnu and is amongst the oldest shrines. Also visit Varashaswamy temple i.e.
dedicated to Varaha, Prasanna
Krishnaswamy Temple and Prasana Krishnaswamy temple.
On
Dussehra day i.e. Saturday is the function that everyone looks forward to.
Reached the palace by 8.30 am. Wanted permission to click pictures of functions
inside the palace. Just when I was about to give up met Suresh Gowda who gave
me an idea on how to get a entry pass. By 10.30 ish was inside the palace.
In
palace courtyard saw wrestling. If blood came out from a wrestler then he is
said to have lost. After the match the present Maharaja comes out into the
courtyard and then sits in the horse driven carrier. He proceeds towards
Chamundareshwari Temple ie inside the temple complex. After offering prayers he
returns to the palace.
Post
lunch the Dussehra function starts. "A dazzling procession of richly
costumed elephants, garlanded idols, liveried retainers and cavalry kicks off
around 1pm, marching through the streets to the rhythms of clanging brass
bands, all the way from the palace to the Bannimantap parade ground".
Saw
performances by Karnataka folk artists for nearly two hours. Enjoyed every
minute. You can book tickets on Bookmyshow to sit inside palace and watch
proceedings. The artists first perform in the palace grounds and then on the
streets for atleast 4 kms ending at the Bannimantap ground. Photo links of
festivities at end of article.
Once
performances are over elephant Arjuna appears with Ma Chamundareswari ka
moorthi. Devotees go ballistic. Procession of elephants and artists reached the
playground by about 7.30 pm after which are daredevil stunts. I was too tired
to walk to the ground.
All along the 4
km odd procession are thousands of people enjoying the proceedings. All roads,
buildings and traffic circles are lit up giving the town a festive look. It is
like the whole city is involved in Dussehra celebrations.
I
missed visiting Brindavan Gardens and the Zoo.
All
in all a wonderful experience. The crowds were well behaved and police did a
very good job in managing them.
Where to stay - Mysore has
numerous hotels catering to various price points. Rates during Dussehra are
usually higher as compared to other times of the year. Karnataka Tourism Hotel
Mayura rooms are Rs 1-2000/ per day. Book online or call 0821 2423492. Two
hotels in the Rs 600-1000/ range are Gayatri Hotel 0821 2425654 and Agrawal
Hotel 0821 2422545. Both hotels are near the station and about ten minutes walk
from the palace. Lots of home stays also available - check online.
The
morning after Dussehra left for Sravanabelgola for darshan of Bahubali. By bus
it is about 3.5 hours one way. Left at 6 am and back by 4.30 ish. Am so happy I
went there. To see pictures see links at end of article.
Mysore
is a base to take conducted tours to Coorg and Western Ghats. Take a 2 day trip
to Cauvery Nisargadhama, Golden Temple Bylukuppe, Nagarahole National Park,
Talacauvery and Bhagamandala.
To
know about Tours from Mysuru organised by government owned KSTDC https://kstdc.co/tour-categories/packages-mysuru/
Also see
pictures of
1. Mysore Dussehra
2. Mysore Palace Inside
3. Somnathpur Temple Mysore
4. Sand Museum Mysuru
5. Close to Mysuru is Tibetan settlement Bylakuppe
6. Bahubali Gomateshwara Sravanabelagola