• This photo feature has some outstanding pictures of the Brihadeshwara Temple along with a good write-up on the temple.

Introduction

My visit to Thanjavur in February 2023 was a profound journey into the heart of Chola excellence. The Brihadeshwara Temple, also known as the "Big Temple" or Peruvudaiyar Kovil, is a spiritual and engineering marvel that has anchored the Kaveri delta for over a millennium. 

Commissioned by Raja Raja Chola I and consecrated in 1010 CE, it stands as a testament to a dynasty that combined administrative precision with divine artistic vision.

Walking into the complex, one is immediately struck by the sheer scale. Unlike other South Indian temples where the entrance Gopurams are the tallest features, here, the Vimana (shrine tower) reigns supreme, asserting the central importance of the deity within.

A Journey in Pictures

1. The Keralantakan Tiruvasal

The approach begins at this outer gateway, named to commemorate Raja Raja I’s victory over the Chera king. Its towering presence against the sky establishes the monumental scale of the "Big Temple" before one even enters the main courtyard. 

Outer Keralantakan Tiruvasal gopuram.

2. The Gateway of the Great King

The journey continues through the Rajarajan Tiruvasal. A close study of this second gateway reveals the transition from pure structural strength to artistic finesse, with intricate Vimana-like carvings and massive monolithic Dvarapalas (guardian deities) flanking the entrance.

Inner Rajarajan Tiruvasal entrance. Close-up of gateway facade and sculptures.

3. The Chronicles in Granite

One of the most significant aspects of this temple is its role as a historical archive. The base of the main shrine is covered in meticulous Tamil inscriptions. These 1,000-year-old records detail land grants, the names of 400 temple dancers, and administrative wages—proving the temple was the socio-economic hub of the empire. 

Detail of granite wall inscriptions.

4. Alignment of the Sacred Axis

Standing by the soaring Dwajasthambam (Flag Post), one can appreciate the precise spatial planning of the Chola architects. The vertical alignment of the pillar against the distant 216-foot Vimana illustrates a symbolic bridge between the earth and the heavens.

Spatial view of pillars and Vimana. Dwajasthambam (Flag Post).

5. The Monolithic Guardian

The Nandi Mandapa houses a colossal monolithic Nandi, one of the largest in Bharat. Carved from a single stone, the bull sits in eternal gaze toward the Lord. The wide-angle perspective captures the Nandi under its ornate pavilion with the towering shrine rising behind it.

The monolithic Nandi bull. Wide-angle courtyard view with Nandi Mandapa.

6. The Engineering Marvel

The Sri Vimana rises to a height of 216 feet. It is built entirely of interlocking granite blocks without the use of mortar. At its apex sits the Kumbam, a monolithic capstone weighing approximately 80 tons, lifted to this height via a legendary 6km long ramp.

Full profile of the 216-foot Sri Vimana.

7. Divine Artistry in Stone

The exterior walls are a gallery of Dev-Koshtas (niche deities). These sculptures, such as Dakshinamurti and Durga, show case the fluid anatomy and serene expressions unique to Chola art, where hard granite appears to have the softness of silk.

Sculptural detail from a temple niche.

8. The Cloistered Walkways and Framed Vistas

The courtyard is enclosed by a pillared Prakara. Using these internal corridors to frame the outer gateways highlights the "city within a city" feel of the complex, emphasizing the rhythmic geometry that defines the space. 

Long corridors of the Prakara. Gateway framed through interior pillars.

9. Hidden Soul

The Chola Murals-Beyond the stone, the temple preserves rare Chola Frescoes in the inner sanctum’s corridor. These vibrant paintings, rediscovered in the 1930s, depict scenes of Shiva as Tripurantaka and represent a peak in Indian mural tradition. 

Chola-era mural painting.

10. A Living Legacy at Sunset

As the sun sets, the granite reflects a warm, golden hue. Despite being a UNESCO World Heritage site, Brihadeshwara remains a living temple. The vibrant colors of devotees against the ancient stone ground this millennium of history in a continuous pulse of worship.

Panorama of the temple at sunset. Current-day devotees in the courtyard.

Tourist Information

a. Best Time to Visit: The ideal time to visit is during the cooler months (October to March).

b. Temple Timings: 6:00 AM to 12:30 PM and 4:00 PM to 8:30 PM.

c. Location: Thanjavur is well-connected by rail and road; the nearest airport is Tiruchirappalli (TRZ), approximately 60 km away.

d. Photography: Allowed in the outer courtyards and Prakara; strictly prohibited inside the main sanctum.

e. Nearby Attractions: The Maratha Palace complex, the Saraswathi Mahal Library, and the nearby "Great Living Chola Temples" at Gangaikonda Cholapuram and Darasuram.

To see albums of

1. Big Temple in detail

2. Maratha Palace

3. Art Gallery in Maratha Palace

4. Gangaikonda Cholapuram Temple

5. Darasuram Temple

Travelogue in Hindi

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