I visited Orissa in December 2013. Took
from a flight from Mumbai to Bhubaneswar. Reached about 7.30 pm. Took a auto
from the airport to the hotels close to the bus stand. Got a nice clean room
for about Rs 800/.
Spent five days in Bhubaneshwar, Konarak
and Puri. Of this about 1.5 days was in Bhubaneswar, a day in Konarak and the
rest in Puri. Great trip to say the least. There is a lot more in Orissa then
what I saw. Left that for another trip.
This piece gives you the places seen day
wise and links to albums on eSamskriti.
Day 1
Left at 6 am for the Lingaraja Mandir.
Had early morning darshan (think I went too early). Keep about 90 minutes to
enjoy Lingaraja.
Later visited Bindu Sarabar Lake, Anantavasudev,
Parasurameshwar, Chitrakarini (next to Lingaraja) and Vaital Deul (tantric
place of worship) temples. Parasurameswar Temple is the oldest temple in the
city and has images of Lord Vishnu, Surya, mother Goddesses, surely worth a
visit.
To see pictures of these temples
About 100 kms from Bhubaneswar are the
monasteries of Ratnagiri, Udaygiri and Lalitgiri which comprise the Diamond
Triangle.. Visited them in the same order. Ratnagiri is on top of a hill, area
beautifully maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. Votive
Stupas 8-11th century A.D. as you climb up the hill. The complex has two
monasteries and a Maha Stupa. One of the monasteries has a huge statue of
Buddha. Monastery witnessed growth from 5-13th century A.D.
Next site
was Udaygiri or The Hill of Sunrise. It is about 20 minute drive from Ratnagiri
in the midst of nowhere. Close to entrance is a Shiv mandir where met the Pandit.
It has a huge Buddha image, shrine complex, ruins of a Maha-stupa and a
residential complex. Museum has large number of stone images.
Last is Lalitgiri or Hill of Grace. We drove thru a village to reach a
big gate. Again this is on a hill very beautifully maintained. Has Chaityagriha
Stupa Complex i.e. 1st century B.C. to 7th century A.D. and monasteries 4th to
11th century A.D.
To see pictures of Monasteries
Returned by 5 pm. Had time so visited
the Mukteswar Temples cluster. Temple attributed to 10th century A.D. This is
probably the most aesthetic temple in Bhubaneswar. It has beautiful decorations,
outdoor wall, stone arched gateway, spire has floral design. Must see.
Day 2
The next morning went there again. Minutes
away from the Muktesvara Mandir is Kedar Gouri temple. It is considered very
auspicious to bath here.
To see pictures of Muktesvar Mandir
From there visited the Raja Rani group
of temples (11th century), Bhaskaresvara temple (13-14th century), Meghesvar
temple (12-13th century). Also see Ananta Vasudeva and Brahmesvara temples.
To see pictures of Raja Rani & other
temples
Also visited a showroom cum training
centre of Sudarshan Arts and Crafts Centre. Enroute to Konarak visited the
showroom of Raghunath Mohapatra (awesome stuff). Got a very good idea of how
stone sculptures are made.
To see pictures of Sudarshan Arts &
Crafts Centre
Enroute to Konarak three places worth
visiting.
One is Dhauli where you see Ashoka's Rock Edict, a Buddhist Pagoda sponsored by the Japanese and sculptured elephant. Next is the 64 Yogini Temple 9th century (worth seeing).
To see pictures of 64 Yogini Mandir and Dhauli
Last is Pipli to see local handicrafts.
Lots of small shops selling. Do visit.
To see pictures of Pipli
Reached Sun Temple Konarak by about
3ish. Saw temple in evening.
Day 3
Early morning went to Chandrabhaga
beach. Very cold in morning but worth it. By 7 am was back at Surya Mandir.
After clicking pictures, breakfast left for Puri by about 11 ish. Missed seeing
the museum at Konarak.
The drive from Konarak to Puri is very good and is called Marine Drive after Mumbai's iconic sea facing road. Was exhausted so spent time walking around the famous Puri beach and a bit of window shopping. One gets very good handicrafts and textiles in Puri.
Keep atleast half a day for Konarak, a full day if you want to enjoy. Hire a guide for sure.
Numbers of two guides whom I used. First is Panda, 91 73776 66652. Second is Shankar, 91 99377 08364.
The temple is made of Khondalite and
Chlorite stone. Must see the following -
Motifs: elephants in various altitudes,
military march and processions, caravans.
Giraffe on southern side is noteworthy.
Platform: see ladies motives e.g.
wringing water from wet hair, tail of snake.
Wheel: 2 by 16 spokes, 8 broad n 8 thin.
Spokes minutely carved.
Deity: Navagarhas–Surya, Chandra, Mangala, Buddha, Brihaspati, Sukra etc
Doorframe Panel: has 3 images – Siva, Shakti, Vaishnav.
Surya Chariot: Top view from a height. Images
of Sun God & Temple of Shadow or Chhaya Devi.
To
see pictures of Sun Temple Konarak (exhaustively covered) -
Album 1
Album 2
Day 4
Next day early morning went to
Jagannatha Temple for darshan. Lucky to witness Manga Aarti at 4 am. Was back
by 6 am. Bought lots of prasad to take home. Carvings on the outer wall of the
main temple depict of the life of Lord Krishna. Sensous sculptures on the walls
of the Bhoga Mandapa. Visit Rohini kund.
To see pictures of Jagannatha Temple
In the morning drove to Chilika Lake 40
kms from Puri. Very scenic drive. Boat ride is about 1 hour, costs Rs 1800/ for
a three hour boat ride. If you are lucky get to see dolphins. Very nice boat
ride. They take you to the point where the lake enters the sea.
To
see pictures of Chilika Lake
In
the afternoon went to heritage village Raghurajpur i.e. only 10 kms from Puri. It
is known the world over for Pattachitra or minitiature paintings. Here every
house either has a national or state award winner. People very humble and nice.
Photo captions have names and phone
numbers of artists along with pictures of their work for e.g. Pranab Das 91 9437632111, 91 9776924900, pranab.painting@gmail.com. Keshab Handicrafts - Kumari Sasmit Maharana 91 9938142847, 91 8984439409. Panchanan Roul 91 7873076432. Tusser Silk sari by Dilip Kumar, 06752 274858, 91 9777065512, subhamartandcraft512@gmail.com. Artist Narayan Das 91 9937314078, 06752 274782, email dashandicrafts@gmail.com.
To
see pictures of Raghurajpur
Day 5
Lots of beach side hotels in Puri. Early
morning went for a walk on the beach. Then visited
Totapuri Ashram (Guru of Ramakrishna
Paramhansa) i.e. about a fifteen minute drive from Puri beach. It is a must
visit since Totapuri Maharaj was a highly evolved spiritual guru.
Minutes away from the beach is Karar
Ashram where lies the Samadhi of Swami Shri Yukteshwar Giri (Guru of Paramhansa
Yogananda). Again a spiritually uplifting experience.
To
see pictures of Totapuri and Karar Ashrams
Do visit Puri beach to see the work of
sand artists Sudarshan Patnaik and Manas Saboo.
On return drove straight to Udaygiri and
Khandagiri i.e. about ten kms away from Bhubaneshwar. Former has 18 Buddhist
caves while latter has 15 Jain caves. In Buddhist caves do see Rani and Hathi
Gumpah.
To see pictures of Udaygiri and Khandgiri Caves
Day 6 took
the next day morning flight to Mumbai. Orissa
is lovely to visit in the winters. Lots of other places to see besides the ones
referred to above. Leave that for another trip.
Also read
1. Very good travelogues on Orissa
2. About Chilika Lake